Learning about issues such as sustainability and locavorism are things that you need to have as part of you as a chef because it will make you cook more delicious food.

I had turned down other head chef jobs. I didn't want to take over someone else's cuisine. I wanted to start from scratch.

Fifteen years ago, France was the promised land of cooking. So I looked at a map, found five restaurants and faxed them to ask for a job. Within five minutes, I got a reply from the then three- star Le Jardin des Sens in Montpellier.

Chefs have a new opportunity - and perhaps even an obligation - to inform the public about what is good to eat, and why.