I've been in a poor physical shape many times in my career and I've had some of my best results. My best performances happened because my mind was in the right place. The mind is definitely stronger than the body.

It's a perfect wave when small and the most beautiful and scary wave on Earth when it's big, as the swell from deep water hits the shallow reef ledge. A ten-foot high wave and a 30-footer break in the same depth of water.

Most of what Hawaii has to offer is no secret. Pipeline is probably the most famous wave in the world.

When I'm 50 I want to be a better surfer than I am now - for me it's a lifelong journey.

I think most writers feel like they're on the outside looking in much of the time. All of us feel, to a certain extent, alienated from the stuff going on around us.

I think I'm ridiculously fortunate. I consider myself a Nigerian - that's home; my sensibility is Nigerian. But I like America, and I like that I can spend time in America.

I think there's not much patience for organized labour, period, public or private sector.

Technology is neutral, but it all depends on the way we use it.